How to Install a Low Voltage
Landscape Lighting System
Before you buy
any materials, before you dig, before you call your utility company to make
sure it’s okay for you to dig—if you want to install low voltage landscape lighting
yourself, the very first thing you should do is plan. Take a look at the space
you have and plan accordingly. Know what fixtures work best for however you
choose to apply the light and be sure to highlight anything that needs
accentuating, like your prize-winning rose shrubs or that fountain that people
keep walking into. Having a plan is essential to installing landscape lights.
Someone call 811!
Know what’s
really going on below. Dial 811 and you’ll be connected to your local one-call
center. Every state has different rules regarding digging and 811 is a free
service that can save you a lot of pain, heartache and expensive surprises by
marking the location of other underground wires and pipes. Don’t dig without
calling!
Nitty and Gritty
Lay out your
light fixtures and wires the way you planned it in your head (or on paper). Use
10-gauge wire for the main lines from the transformer to where the lights
begin, then switch to 12-gauge wire between the lights. The higher gauge wire
helps decrease voltage drop, creates a more even voltage dispersion and helps
you get the best out of all the lights on your line.
Use a shovel to
bury wires across the lawn by cutting a slot into the ground and folding back
the sod. Wires need be buried at least 6 inches deep to avoid damage when you
aerate the lawn.
Transformer Location
The best thing
to do with your transformer is to mount it on a post in a location that is both
central to your landscape plan and near an outdoor ground fault circuit
interrupter (GFCI). This allows you the ability to easily change the
orientation of the photocell.
Strip off ¾
inch of insulation on the 10-gauge wires, twist the strands together and attach
them to the transformer terminals.
Remember, the
transformer will always be plugged in, so replace the standard outlet cover
with a weatherproof one to better protect your transformer. You can find a
weatherproof cover at any hardware store.
Rock Steady
Because the ground stakes that are packaged with most path
lights aren’t long enough to keep the light vertical over time, use plastic
pipe to make bases for cone and path lights that are top-heavy. This base makes
the light sturdier, provides housing for your wire and allows you to make
extensions from ½ inch copper pipe. Just make sure not to glue any plastic
parts together.
Next, connect the wires with weatherproof wire connectors.
These wire connectors have a shield on the bottom and a blob of sealant inside
that make them weatherproof. If your lights came with press-on connections (the
kinds that bite through the insulation and into the wire to make their
connection), cut them off, strip off 1/2 in. of insulation, and install the
connectors. This will protect your wires and make them last longer, saving you
a lot of work later.
Dig a hole deep
enough to level with the top of the PVC pipe base. Level the light pole and
pack in soil around the base.
Testing
Use a digital
voltage meter (found at any electronics store for pretty cheap) and test each
light fixture for its voltage level. Halogens should receive 10 to 12 volts
each for consistency and to avoid premature burnout. If you get really low
readings, you may have too many lights on a circuit or there’s a bad connection
somewhere in they system. Minor voltage adjustments can be made using the
voltage controls on the transformer.
Rules of Thumb
-
Avoid
voltage drop by running 2 shorter lines rather than one long line. Remember,
don’t place more than 100 watts of lighting on one line. Also, thicker gauge
wire helps to reduce voltage drop.
-
Leave
a little extra wire as you install the lights. This will allow you to move the
light after installing it.
- Get
a transformer that has a timer and a built-in photocell and turn the mounting
post toward the west, where the sun sets, so that your lights don’t come on
earlier than necessary.